Important: Remember, whenever you bring new rats home and you already have rats, you must quarantine them for at least two weeks to ensure they're not harboring any diseases (or parasites like mites or lice) that could infect the rats you already have. For a quarantine to be truly effective, it must be conducted in a seperate air space. You can use this time to get the newcomers used to their new home by handling them carefully and respectfully, and giving them lots of treats!

Once you've done all the research and are absolutely sure that rats are for you, and that you can handle all the responsibilities that come along with rat guardianship, and you have the cage set up and everything else you need ready to go, you have to go get them! There are three main places you can get your ratties: from a breeder or from a pet store, or you can get a rescue ratty. Whichever you end up choosing, it's a good idea to take something with you to carry the rats home in such as a small carrying cage or a fleece bag carrier.

When picking out new rats, you want to look first and foremost at temperament and health. Looks are nice, but they're nothing without a rat whose company you're going to enjoy, and who is going to enjoy your company in return, and is going to live long enough for your mutual company enjoyment!

First, examine the surroundings. Are the cages clean? Well ventilated? What kind of litter is being used? Is the water fresh, and do they have plenty of the right kind of food? Are the males and females kept in seperate cages? In short, you want to make sure they are kept in an adequate environment, the kind of setting you'll be keeping them in, living quarters that inspire confidence that they are being very well taken care of.

Next, check on the health conditions of the rats. Pick one at random and examine him. He should feel hefty when you pick him up, not skinny and frail, and his coat should not be dull. Also check for lumps and any other abnormalities including bloating, which can be a sign of sickness.

Is there porphyrin around his nose and/or eyes? Are his eyes clear? Is he active and curious, or hunched over and still? *Note: rats can tense up when afraid, but in time they should relax, or at least loosen up enough to flee in a non hunched way. However, if a rat is poofy (fur is fluffed) and not obviously annoyed with another rat (as this will also cause poofiness), he is likely not feeling well. *Sidenote: fear can also cause diarrhea!

Is the rat sneezing? This could be caused by fear, or dusty bedding, or an allergy to your soap, but it could also be an indication of illness. Put the rat up to your ear. What do you hear? Healthy rats don't make much noise while breathing, so if you hear things like wheezing, whuffling, and gasping, it could be a sign of illness.

Examine the rat's teeth. Are they a healthy yellow-orange, or an unhealthy white? Are they the proper length?

Check his skin. Does he have any scabs? The occasional scab could be from a minor scuffle with a cage mate, but if you see several it's a likely sign that he has lice or mites, or possibly has too much protein in his diet.

If one rat in the group is sick or has another health issue, operate under the assumption that they all do, either through a contagion or neglect of some kind.

Once you've ascertained that you've found a healthy group of ratties that are being well taken care of, it's time to choose the right one(s) for you! Put your hand in the cage and see who comes to you. Look for a rat who is curious about you and not afraid, one that runs right up to your hand and sniffs you and tries to climb up your arm. This could be your new rat! You want to find a rat who is friendly, alert, and sweet, and one who chooses you just as you choose him.

From a Breeder

Breeders can be a great source for rats. However, don't assume that just because someone is a breeder they are good at what they do and care for their animals. Just as there are all kinds of people in the world, there are all kinds of breeders.

If at all possible, talk to people who have already dealt with the breeder you're considering. Find out how their experience with the breeder was, how healthy their babies were, what sort of health problems the rats developed later in life, and what their temperaments were like.

When talking to the breeder, ask as many questions as you want, feel free to ask to hold both parents, and say no and move on if you're not comfortable. Inspect the area the rats are kept in and the rats themselves. It can also be good to inspect any other animals the breeder has.

If the breeder will not let you visit their rattery, find out why. They may have something to hide, or they may have a legitimate reason such as a general rule of precautionary quarantine.

Ask questions such as why they got into breeding, how often they have litters, how many litters a particular doe has given birth to, how the babies have turned out in the past, and what the breeder is trying to accomplish in breeding. Decide in advance whether or not you're comfortable with a breeder who sells rats as feeders or who breeds primarily to produce show quality rats.

Pros:

• You know the history of the rats going back several generations.
• Acquiring from breeders generally gives you the best chance for happy and healthy rats.
• Good breeders are available for some degree of support after the adoption. For example, they should be willing to take the rats back if for some reason you are not able to care for them.
• Sometimes other things are included in the purchase price, such as a small supply of food, a hammock, etc.
• Generally breeders have a much better selection of colors, markings, etc.

• Some breeders aren't good/caring/fair at what they do.
• Prices are generally more than you would pay in a pet store.
• It can be hard to find a breeder close to you, or one that is willing to ship if you are okay with having them shipped to you, and able to pay the shipping costs.
• Litters are usually planned periodically throughout the year, and some have waiting lists, so rats are not always available.

From a Pet Store

Rats are also available at many pet stores, although often they are labeled as feeders which means that they are meant as food for other creatures like snakes. There is not always a difference between the rats for sale as pets (sometimes called fancy rats) and the rats in the feeder bin. Often in both cases the rats are bred in rat mills, which means that they are mass produced and not bred with health and temperament in mind, and often stores that sell both feeders and rats as pets will get them from the same source and pick the ones to be sold as pets based on how cute they are perceived to be. Being labeled a fancy rat is not a guarantee that the rat will make a good pet, and being labeled a feeder rat does not mean the rat will not make a good pet.

You must be especially diligent in checking the health of any pet store rat you're considering taking home. There are a lot of great pet stores out there, but unfortunately there are also a lot where the main goal is to make money and little thought is given to the well being of the animals sold. Pet stores are often staffed by people who have little or no education about the animals they are selling. Rats in particular get the short end of the stick as they are often seen as unworthy of the attention more often given to animals like cats and dogs.

One of the most common things that happens when a pet store is staffed by unknowledgable employees is that the males and females get mixed up together. Assume you will have to do a sex check on any rat you're looking at, as it's possible the staff will not know how to, even if they act like they do. Then assume any and all of the females over five weeks of age who have been living with males are pregnant.

Pros:

• Pet stores are common and easy to find.
• Pet store rats are generally cheaper than breeder rats.

• You don't know the history of the rat.
• The rat may have been taken care of by improperly trained staff.
• Female rats could be pregnant.
• The rats have most likely not been bred from proven healthy and friendly rats with the end result of healthy and friendly baby rats in mind.
• You are supporting the practice of selling live animals in stores (obviously this is only a con if you are against this practice)

Rescue Ratties

Sometimes local animal shelters have rats for adoption, and the vets in your area may also be able to put you in touch with some. There are also rescue operations specifially for rats, and other rescue operations for a variety of animals that include rats. And of course there are always individuals who need to rehome their rats for any number of reasons.

Rescue rats can range from babies to eldery rats, from healthy rats to sickly ones and rats who may have disabilites or other special needs. They may be socialized and very friendly, or they could be biters and have aggression issues or fear issues. However, these things are true of rats from most sources. A good rescue organization will work hard to make their rats healthy and social.

Sometimes rats are abandoned to shelters because their owners can no longer take care of them, or they were the pets of children who eventually got bored with them, or a pregnant doe gave birth to an unplanned litter.

You must be aware that any rat you find through a rescue agency has the potential to be sick, disabled, aggressive, anti-social, or even pregnant.

Pros:

• You are rescuing a rat who may not get a chance at life otherwise.
• Rescue rats are often free, or a small fee is charged to discourage snake owners who are just looking for free food and to help pay for any expenses, such as medical attention and housing, the rat has accrued during its stay at the shelter. *Note: This is a pro to getting a rat from a rescue organization, not a reason on its own.

• Rescue rats may be sick, disabled, aggressive, anti-social, or even pregnant.
• Their backgrounds are largely unknown.

 

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